HARENNA, THE LAST COFFEE COLLECTOR
Wild coffee is still harvested in a remote region of Ethiopia. Its quality is excellent, and its genes could prove crucial in the fight against climate change
Harenna coffee has been recognized as one of the five best coffees in all of Africa. Harenna is a forest located at an altitude of 2,000 meters in Bale National Park. Here, coffee grows wild and is still harvested today by a rare local community — around 5,000 people — that lived in isolation until just a few decades ago, when the first road through the forest was built by Mengistu’s socialist army. Along this route, the coffee first travels on muleback, then by truck along a road that rises to 4,000 meters above sea level: the highest drivable trade route in Africa. Some studies suggest that, within a few decades, climate change could cause coffee to disappear entirely from East Africa. And the genetic biodiversity found in Harenna coffee could prove to be a crucial asset in the fight against the risk of extinction.