Pure Tokyo

Tokyo appears as a city projected into the future, hyper-technological and in constant transformation. Yet beneath the surface runs an ancient system of values, rooted in discipline and restraint

ASIA | JAPAN | GEOGRAPHY | CULTURE

Tokyo (Japan), a metro driver, at Shibuya station.

There is an urban legend about the fire that broke out in 1932 at Tokyo’s Shirokiya department store. According to the story, the saleswomen—wearing traditional kimonos and, at the time, no underwear—made their way to the roof but chose death in the flames rather than jump into the safety nets below, which would have exposed their bodies and brought unbearable shame.

Since then, Tokyo has expanded, customs have shifted, and women now wear Western-style underwear. Yet deep underground the subway remains much the same, even as it is constantly evolving. For all its density, hyper-technology, and almost schizophrenic futurism—whether you look around the International Forum, have a coffee at the National Art Center, stroll down Takeshita Street, or stand in the rain at the famous Shibuya crossing—Tokyo preserves a restrained, traditional spirit: often refined, sometimes demure, even innocent.

The moment you scratch the surface of modernity and its fashions, you uncover centuries of discipline rooted in harmony and respect for social order. Moving through the city, this becomes evident in small details: in the meticulous care of parks and the countless Shinto shrines scattered throughout Tokyo; in the silent composure of commuters on public transport; in the fleeting, almost shy glances exchanged in the ryokan of Chiyoda; in the rigid respect for uniforms and labels.

All of it recalls a classic Japanese proverb: “The nail that sticks out gets hammered down.”

Tokyo (Japan), the bar on the top floor of the Metropolitan Government Building.

Tokyo (Japan), the entrance to Robot Restaurant, in the district of Kabukichō.

Tokyo (Japan), the gardens of the Tokyo National Museum.

Tokyo (Japan), a guide at Miraikan, The National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation.

Tokyo (Japan), walking through the district of Kabukichō.

Tokyo (Japan), two young women at the beginning of Takeshita Street.

Tokyo (Japan), two young women dressed in traditional kimonos photographing each other in a park in the district of Nihonbashi.

Tokyo (Japan), men going to work, in the district of Hamamatsuchō.

Tokyo (Japan), Tokyo International Forum, in the district of Chiyoda.

Tokyo (Japan), pedestrians crossing the famous intersection of Shibuya.

Tokyo (Japan), visitors walking through Miraikan, The National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation.

Tokyo (Japan), a barista seated at his bar in Shinjuku Golden Gai.

Tokyo (Japan), a visitor to Roppongi Hills A/D Gallery, inside Tokyo City View.

Tokyo (Japan), going home from work, near Daimon station.

Tokyo (Japan), a nighttime view of the district of Hamamatsuchō.

Tokyo (Japan), a taxi driver in Shinjuku.

Tokyo (Japan), one of the main stores in the district of Nihonbashi.

Tokyo (Japan), the Tokyo National Museum, The Gallery of Horyuji Treasures.

Tokyo (Japan), a woman getting on the escalator at Shimbashi station.

Tokyo (Japan), view from the top floor of the Metropolitan Government Building.

Tokyo (Japan), at Hamamatsuchō metro station.

Tokyo (Japan), a view of the city from Tokyo City View.

Tokyo (Japan), a woman in a kimono purchasing a metro ticket at Hamamatsuchō station.

Tokyo (Japan), a woman walking outside a restaurant in Tokyo Midtown.

Tokyo (Japan), elegant men walking through Tokyo Midtown.

Tokyo (Japan), visiting Miraikan, The National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation.

Tokyo (Japan), tourists and passers-by at Tokyo City View.

Tokyo (Japan), strange fashion on Takeshita Street.

Tokyo (Japan), inside the National Art Center.

Tokyo (Japan), a visit to Miraikan, The National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation.

Tokyo (Japan), people going to work in the morning, in the district of Hamamatsuchō.

Tokyo (Japan), the start of the show at Robot Restaurant, in the district of Kabukichō.

Tokyo (Japan), the Ferris wheel known as Daikanransha, at the Port of Tokyo (Odaiba).

Tokyo (Japan), during the show at Robot Restaurant, in the district of Kabukichō.

Tokyo (Japan), Tokyo National Museum, the three-coloured glaze ceramic statue of an official, Tang dynasty, 7th/8th century.

Tokyo (Japan), a woman selling lottery tickets at the famous intersection of Shibuya.

Tokyo (Japan), the famous intersection of Shibuya.

Tokyo (Japan), cooks working at a restaurant in Tokyo Midtown.

Tokyo (Japan), a man on an escalator in a shopping centre in Nihonbashi.

Tokyo (Japan), a space to relax inside Tokyo Midtown.

Tokyo (Japan), five travellers on the phone, in the metro.

Tokyo (Japan), two people walking through a park in Tokyo Midtown.

Tokyo (Japan), people on the phone, close to Hamamatsuchō station.

Tokyo (Japan), at the fish market of Tsukiji.

Tokyo (Japan), go-karts on a street not far from Takeshita Street.

Tokyo (Japan), people at a cafe in Tokyo Midtown.

Tokyo (Japan), eating dinner in a restaurant in the district of Kabukichō.