RESILIENT DELTA

Threatened by human activity, climate change and the war in Ukraine, Romania's Danube Delta is home to a wonderful and fragile water labyrinth that must be defended at all way

EUROPE | ROMANIA | ENVIRONMENT | GEOGRAPHY

Not far from Mahmudia (Romania), a young man is ferried from one bank to the other of the Saint George branch, one of the three branches into which the Danube River divides in the delta. It is the southernmost and oldest of the Danube's branches that flow into the Black Sea.

There is an Amazon on the Black Sea that Ceaușescu wanted to turn into agricultural land during communism. A no-man's land on the border between Romania and Ukraine that Putin is now bombing because much of Kiev's grain passes through here. It is the Danube Delta, one of the wildest areas in Europe: a huge labyrinth of rivers, canals, islands and reed beds in constant flux, the Romanian part of which (the largest) became a UNESCO World Heritage Site after the fall of the Berlin Wall. A paradise for birdwatchers from all over the world, it is also the birthplace of the country's best canoeists because here - with no roads or bridges - the only way to get around has always been by boat.

In recent years, however, the Danube Delta has been facing difficult challenges that threaten its future. The Black Sea is rising and with it the salinity of fresh water. The waves generated by the massive passage of ships and motorboats fuel the erosion of the main waterways, while climate change (and the resulting drought) contributes to the drying up of small streams already channeled by humans. These are the only accessible routes for one of Europe's most isolated populations: in a wet and marshy area covering over 3,400 square kilometers (three times the size of Los Angeles, to give you an idea), historically a refuge for pirates, outlaws, and adventurers, today less than ten thousand people remain. To top it all, there is the war between Moscow and Kiev: the conflict has not only physically damaged some centers in the Delta (bombs continue to rain down on the Ukrainian port of Izmail) but has also brought tourism to a collapse, increased pollution, damaged the natural habitat and blocked most research projects.

Some drones used for mapping the territory, for example, were mistaken for enemy weapons and shot down, as were some birds equipped with GPS systems for monitoring. “War scares us, but it's not the only issue,” says Alexandru Dorosencu, a researcher at the Danube Delta National Institute: “We need to encourage slower, more sustainable tourism that has less of an environmental impact and increasingly respects this incredible biodiversity.”

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People disembarked at Gorgova (Romania) from the public ferry along the route from Tulcea to Sulina, sailing for four hours along the Sulina branch, one of the three branches into which the Danube River divides within the delta, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Gorgova, like many other villages in the delta, can only be reached by water.

Sulina (Romania), a woman lights a candle while people beg alms for the deceased after mass in the Orthodox Cathedral of St. Nicholas. Sulina, on the Black Sea and in the heart of the Danube Delta, can only be reached by water.

Jurilovca (Romania), part of the lagoons on Lake Goloviţa have been turned into fishing reserves. Overlooking the Black Sea, the lake is part of the wider Danube Delta and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Tulcea (Romania), chemical engineer Mihaela Tiganus works in her laboratory at the Danube Delta National Institute, an institute focused on research and development in the fields of environmental protection, ecology and sustainable development.

Dunavățu de Jos (Romania), boats along a canal surrounded by vegetation. The village lies along the Dunavățu canal, which flows into the Saint George River, one of the three branches into which the Danube divides in the delta area, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Tulcea (Romania), Romanian teenagers watch freshwater fish swimming in a tank at the Danube Delta Eco-Tourism Museum Center, a museum that explores the environmental, naturalistic, and anthropological aspects of the vast delta area, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Sulina (Romania), fisherman Lucian watches construction work on a village church. Sulina, the heart of the Danube Delta and accessible only by water, was an important river port on the Black Sea in the 19th century and home to a cosmopolitan European society.

Mila 23 (Romania), Lipovan women cook dressed in traditional clothing in the village along a canal that flows into Sulina, one of the three branches into which the Danube divides in the delta. Mila 23 can only be reached by water, and its inhabitants—mostly Lipovana fishermen (a Slavic group of Russian origin)—are famous for being excellent canoeists, some of whom are Olympic champions.

Tulcea (Romania), some species of carp swim in a tank at the Danube Delta Eco-Tourism Museum Center, a museum that explores the environmental, naturalistic, and anthropological aspects of the vast delta area, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The boys are bored on the ferry from Tulcea to Sulina, sailing for four hours along the Sulina branch, one of the three branches into which the Danube River divides within the delta in Romania, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Dunavățu de Jos (Romania), a view of the village located along the Dunavățu canal, in the heart of the Danube Delta, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A delegation of researchers from the 2025 “Deltas and Wetlands” symposium, held in Tulcea, relaxes and chats aboard a boat sailing along the Sulina branch of the Danube River (Romania), in the heart of the delta, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Mila 23 (Romania), laundry hanging outside a house in a village that can only be reached by water. Its inhabitants—mostly fishermen of Lipovan ethnicity—are famous for being excellent Olympic canoeists.

Tulcea (Romania), researcher Cristian Trifanov (right) and his colleague Marian Mierla prepare a Lidar drone to produce, among other things, georeferenced 3D maps in a laboratory at the Danube Delta National Institute, an institute dedicated to research and development in the fields of environmental protection, ecology, and sustainable development.

Vadu (Romania), Muriel Lejeune, on the right with binoculars, observes birds with a group of Belgian birdwatchers in the Danube Delta, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Tulcea (Romania), an old photo of a boat sailing in the delta hanging on a wall at the Danube Delta National Institute, an institute dedicated to research and development in the fields of environmental protection, ecology, and sustainable development.

Captain Nikola Anenei, in the white shirt, talks with some crew members while sailing along the Sulina branch of the Danube River (Romania), in the heart of the delta, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. On board is a delegation from the 2025 “Deltas and Wetlands” symposium, held in Tulcea.

Vadu (Romania), 23-year-old shepherd Florian Ciocan herds his sheep along the Sinoe lagoon, inside the Danube Delta National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Sulina (Romania), two friends relax on the beach on the Black Sea. Sulina, in the heart of the Danube Delta, is accessible only by water; was an important river port on the Black Sea in the 19th century and home to a cosmopolitan European society.

Tulcea (Romania), researcher Orhan Ibram at work in the hydrobiology laboratory of the Danube Delta National Institute, an institute dedicated to research and development in the fields of environmental protection, ecology, and sustainable development.

Vișina (Romania), a reed bed at sunset on Lake Golovița, along the Black Sea and within the vast Danube Delta, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Mila 23 (Romania), Lipovan children sitting on the steps of a house in a village that can only be reached by water. Its inhabitants—mostly Lipovan fishermen (a Slavic group of Russian origin)—are famous for being excellent Olympic canoeists.

Ships carrying liquid gas sail along the Sulina branch, one of the three branches into which the Danube River divides within the delta in Romania, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Sulina (Romania), during the Festivalului Piraților (a music festival inspired by the world of pirates), founder Gelu Tusu, center, chats with friends at a bar. Sulina, the heart of the Danube Delta and accessible only by water, was an important river port on the Black Sea in the 19th century and home to a cosmopolitan European society.

The ticket collector on the public ferry that takes passengers from Tulcea to Sulina, sailing for four hours along the Sulina branch, one of the three branches into which the Danube River divides within the delta in Romania, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Sulina (Romania), a baptism in the Orthodox Cathedral of St. Nicholas. Sulina, on the Black Sea and in the heart of the Danube Delta, can only be reached by water.

Tourists on a boat along a small canal north of the Sulina branch of the Danube River (Romania), in the heart of the delta and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Sulina (Romania), the cemetery founded in 1864 and managed by the European Commission of the Danube, is still today a symbol of the cosmopolitan spirit of the village, the heart of the Danube Delta and accessible only by water: entrepreneurs, princesses, pirates, sailors, and adventurers from all over the world are buried there.

Sulina (Romania), a boat (below) is following a canal that flows into Musura Bay, Danube Delta, where Ukrainian territory begins. Musura Bay is a disputed territory between Romania and Ukraine, which—also due to changes in the bay caused by silting and flooding—have not yet fully agreed on the national border.

Sulina (Romania), at sunset, people chat and have a drink at the Festivalului Piraților (a music festival inspired by the world of pirates) while waiting for the concert to begin. Sulina, the heart of the Danube Delta and accessible only by water, was an important river port on the Black Sea in the 19th century and home to a cosmopolitan European society.

Sulina (Romania), along the Sulina River, a branch of the Danube in the delta, large ships from the Black Sea dock as they travel upriver. Sulina, the heart of the Danube Delta and accessible only by water, was an important river port on the Black Sea in the 19th century and home to a cosmopolitan European society.

Dunavățu de Jos (Romania), Valeriu Aftene, 66, is a fisherman who lives in Tulcea but moves to this village during the fishing season, where he was born and where he owns land overlooking the Dunavățu canal.

Tulcea (Romania), stuffed pelicans in an environmental reconstruction at the Danube Delta Eco-Tourism Museum Center, a museum that explores the environmental, naturalistic, and anthropological aspects of the vast delta area, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Mila 23 (Romania), a fresco depicting life in the Danube Delta decorates the restaurant of the Ivan Patzaichin Museum, dedicated to the history of Romania's most famous Olympic canoeist, who was born in Mila 23. The village is accessible only by water, and its inhabitants, mostly Lipovan fishermen, are renowned for being excellent canoeists.

Enisala (Romania), a dog walks past the ruins of the medieval castle of Enisala, built on a hill overlooking Babadag Lagoon to the west and Lake Razim to the east, along the Black Sea and within the vast Danube Delta.

Mila 23 (Romania), men at the bar chat and drink after work. The village of Mila 23 can only be reached by water, and its inhabitants-mostly fishermen from the Lipovana ethnic group (a Slavic group of Russian origin)-are known to be excellent Olympic canoeists.

Sabangia (Romania), agricultural work in the fields overlooking Lake Razim, in the vast area of the Danube Delta. The rise in the level of the Black Sea could lead to increased salinization of the delta's fresh water and threaten part of the local agriculture.

Sulina (Romania), at sunset, some young people attend a concert at the Festivalului Piraților (a music festival inspired by the world of pirates). Sulina, the heart of the Danube Delta and accessible only by water, was an important river port on the Black Sea in the 19th century and home to a cosmopolitan European society.

Sulina (Romania), a boy is photographed by a friend on a small pier overlooking the Black Sea. Sulina, the heart of the Danube Delta and accessible only by water, was an important river port in the 19th century and home to a cosmopolitan European society.

A delegation of researchers from the 2025 “Deltas and Wetlands” symposium, held in Tulcea, is aboard a boat sailing along the Sulina branch of the Danube River (Romania), in the heart of the delta, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Tulcea (Romania), a photo of a child is displayed in the reconstruction of a typical Danube Delta house in the Museum of the Traditional Fishing Village.

Tulcea (Romania), German students on a study vacation at the Danube Delta Eco-Tourism Museum Center, a museum that explores the environmental, naturalistic, and anthropological aspects of the vast delta area, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Mila 23 (Romania), an old photograph shows some Romanian canoe champions with, at the bottom, second from the right, the famous Ivan Patzaichin, winner of four Olympic gold medals. Ivan, who died in 2021, lived in Mila 23, a village accessible only by water, whose inhabitants—mostly Lipovan fishermen—are famous for being excellent canoeists. Today, the Ivan Patzaichin Museum illustrates his history and achievements, as well as describing the natural habitat of the Danube Delta.

Not far from Tulcea (Romania), a small shipyard stands along the Saint George branch, one of the three branches into which the Danube River divides in the delta. It is the southernmost and oldest of the Danube's branches flowing into the Black Sea.

Mahmudia (Romania), locals play chess a stone's throw from the branch of the Danube called San Giorgio. A few years ago in Mahmudia, the WWF, together with the Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve Administration (ARBDD), restored a vast agricultural polder to its natural state.

Sulina (Romania), at the Festivalului Piraților (a music festival inspired by the world of pirates), a man poses dressed as a pirate. Sulina, the heart of the Danube Delta and accessible only by water, was an important river port on the Black Sea in the 19th century and home to a cosmopolitan European society.

A moment of rest while sailing along the Sulina branch of the Danube River (Romania), in the heart of the delta, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. On board the boat is a delegation from the “Deltas and Wetlands” 2025 symposium, held in Tulcea.

Murighiol (Romania), a view of several lakes and canals at sunset in the heart of the Danube Delta, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Tulcea (Romania), a man rests after a run along the Danube. Tulcea is the main gateway to the Danube Delta, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A local resident transports timber by motorboat along a small canal north of the Sulina branch of the Danube River (Romania), in the heart of the delta and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Detail of a map of the Danube Delta (Romania) aboard a boat sailing along the Sulina branch of the Danube, in the heart of the delta, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Tulcea (Romania), researchers Iasemin Suliman (foreground) and Orhan Ibram at work in the hydrobiology laboratory of the Danube Delta National Institute, an institute dedicated to research and development in the fields of environmental protection, ecology, and sustainable development.

Boats along the bank of a small canal north of the Sulina branch of the Danube River (Romania), in the heart of the delta and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Two girls do their school homework on the ferry from Tulcea to Sulina, sailing for four hours along the Sulina branch, one of the three branches into which the Danube River divides within the delta in Romania, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Two elderly people chat on the public ferry along the route from Tulcea to Sulina, sailing for four hours along the Sulina branch, one of the three branches into which the Danube River divides within the delta in Romania, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Sulina (Romania), a woman walks along elevated platforms in the middle of a wetland. Sulina, the heart of the Danube Delta and accessible only by water, was an important river port on the Black Sea in the 19th century and home to a cosmopolitan European society.

Sulina (Romania), at sunset, a girl looks at her smartphone in a room of a house during the Festivalului Piraților (a music festival inspired by the world of pirates). Sulina, the heart of the Danube Delta and accessible only by water, was an important river port on the Black Sea in the 19th century and home to a cosmopolitan European society.

In the village of Crișan (accessible only by water), people wait for the public ferry that takes them from Tulcea to Sulina, sailing for four hours along the Sulina branch, one of the three branches into which the Danube River divides within the delta in Romania, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Tulcea (Romania), a man dries himself off after a run along the Danube. Tulcea is the main gateway to the Danube Delta, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Vadu (Romania), a flock of sheep grazing along the Sinoe lagoon, within the Danube Delta Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A delegation of researchers from the 2025 “Deltas and Wetlands” symposium, held in Tulcea, is aboard a boat traveling along the Sulina branch of the Danube River (Romania), in the heart of the delta, passing close to a large ship transporting liquid gas.

Sulina (Romania), decorations for a party on the beach overlooking the Black Sea. Sulina, the heart of the Danube Delta and accessible only by water, was an important river port in the 19th century and home to a cosmopolitan European society.

Sulina (Romania), a woman confesses after mass in the Orthodox Cathedral of St. Nicholas. Sulina, on the Black Sea and in the heart of the Danube Delta, can only be reached by water.

Not far from Mahmudia (Romania), a boat ferries people from one bank to the other of the Saint George branch, one of the three branches into which the Danube River divides in the delta. It is the southernmost and oldest of the Danube's branches that flow into the Black Sea.

Dunavățu de Jos (Romania), Silvestru has always lived in this village along the Dunavățu canal, in the heart of the Danube Delta, and during the tourist season he takes visitors on boat trips along the rivers of the delta, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Enisala (Romania), a view of the ruins of the medieval castle of Enisala, built on a hill overlooking the Babadag lagoon to the west and Lake Razim to the east, along the Black Sea.

An elderly lady observes the landscape on the public ferry that takes her from Tulcea to Sulina, sailing for four hours along the Sulina branch, one of the three branches into which the Danube River divides within the delta in Romania, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Dunavățu de Jos (Romania), a view of the village with the parish church of the “Nativity of the Virgin Mary.” The village lies along the Dunavățu Canal, in the heart of the Danube Delta, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A ship carrying liquid gas sails along the Sulina branch, one of the three branches into which the Danube River divides within the delta in Romania, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Sulina (Romania), a boat is following a canal that flows into Musura Bay, in the Danube Delta, where Ukrainian territory begins. Musura Bay is a disputed territory between Romania and Ukraine, which—partly due to changes in the bay caused by silting and flooding—have not yet fully agreed on the national border.

Tulcea (Romania), researcher Aurel Nâstase at work in the ichthyology laboratory of the Danube Delta National Institute, an institute dedicated to research and development in the fields of environmental protection, ecology, and sustainable development.

A man pays a ferryman not far from Mahmudia (Romania) along the Saint George branch, one of the three branches into which the Danube River divides in the delta. It is the southernmost and oldest of the Danube's branches that flow into the Black Sea.