THE GULF WHERE ARMS MEET LUXURY

At the heart of the Mediterranean lies a district that, alongside cutting-edge missiles and tanks, produces some of the most beautiful yachts in the world. This is how war and the race to rearm have fueled the economic boom of a small yet stunning Italian gulf

EUROPE | ITALY | SOCIAL ISSUES | ECONOMY

La Spezia (Italy), the Italian Navy frigate “Emilio Bianchi” is entering the military arsenal. Opened in 1869 and intended for the construction of military ships, today the arsenal is a naval base for the Italian Navy but has retained only a maintenance function, losing most of its 12,000 employees (today there are only a few hundred).

Around the world, one in four megayachts is built in a small Italian gulf at the heart of the Mediterranean. It is the Gulf of La Spezia, at once the world’s leading district for luxury yachting and a nerve center of European arms production. Here, just a stone’s throw from the stunning Cinque Terre, a favorite destination of the international jet set, the two souls of war and peace mingle every day: refined high-end yachts by Riva, Baglietto and Sanlorenzo are built in the so-called Blue Mile alongside Leonardo cannons and tanks, Fincantieri frigates, and advanced defense systems designed by NATO. The result is an industrial hub where maritime tradition, innovative design and military security exist side by side: a unique strategic sector which, supported by the global race to rearm, employs more than 15,000 people overall and drives projects worth billions.

The story begins in the nineteenth century, when one of Europe’s most important military arsenals was established in the Gulf of La Spezia — a cradle of sailors and master shipwrights, a paradise loved by poets such as Lord Byron and Mary Shelley. Alongside it grew an ecosystem of excellence that still brings together seafaring craftsmen, shipyards, scientific research centers and the arms industry. La Spezia has thus become one of the capitals of the blue economy and, in 2025, it was awarded the title of UNESCO Creative City of Design. Yet La Spezia is also experiencing a quiet identity crisis: the defense district generates wealth and jobs, but it also raises environmental and moral questions. Some denounce its impact on the territory, while others call for industrial conversion in the name of a “blue transition.” The Ligurian city thus becomes a privileged vantage point, embodying a question that all of Europe is now facing: will the future be built on a war economy, or on a model of sustainable peace?

Download PDF

La Spezia (Italy), visitors at the stand of the European consortium MBDA, manufacturer of missiles and defense technologies, at the Seafuture trade fair, held at the Arsenale and dedicated to the marine, defense, and military production sectors.

La Spezia (Italy): the Mirabello marina overlooks the Gulf of Poets, with the city’s historic center in the background. A landmark for megayachts in the Mediterranean, Porto Mirabello is the only marina in Italy built on an artificial peninsula entirely out at sea.

La Spezia (Italy), an Italian Navy officer enters a conference room aboard the frigate Spartaco Schergat, inside the Military Arsenal, during the Seafuture trade show, which focuses on the shipbuilding, defense, and military industries.

La Spezia (Italy), technicians working with autonomous underwater gliders in a laboratory at the NATO Maritime Research and Experimentation Center (CMRE).

Le Grazie (La Spezia, Italy): First Lieutenant Augusto Mormile, a diver and member of the GOS (Gruppo Operativo Subacquei, or Underwater Operations Group), surfaces after a dive using old surface-supplied diving equipment. The GOS is one of the two units that make up Comsubin (Diving and Raiding Group Command), an elite unit of the Italian Navy based at the Varignano Fortress in the Gulf of La Spezia.

La Spezia (Italy), Damiano Pugliese is aboard the Pandora, a boat belonging to the Vela Tradizionale association, on the day the Italian Navy’s sailing ship “Amerigo Vespucci” (in the background) returns to the Gulf of La Spezia after a round-the-world voyage lasting approximately two years (2023–2025). The ship is headed to the Military Arsenal, where it will undergo extensive maintenance work for several months.

La Spezia (Italy), in a basin of the Military Arsenal, maintenance is being carried out on the ship Gorgona “Moto Trasporto Costiero” (MTC) while behind it, on the left, the large frigate Carlo Margottini is moored, both belonging to the Italian Navy. Opened in 1869 and intended for the construction of military ships, today the arsenal is a naval base for the Italian Navy but has retained only a maintenance function, losing most of its 12,000 employees (today there are only a few hundred).

Portovenere (La Spezia, Italy), at the “Cottrau” firing range, officer Leonardo Manciaracina inspects one of the tunnels of the experimental firing range for ballistic and artillery weapons: established in 1911, the firing range is managed by the Navy's Naval Support and Experimentation Center (CSSN).

La Spezia (Italy), a group of local residents is protesting in the historic center against Israel’s attacks on Gaza and against the Seafuture trade show, which is being held at the La Spezia naval shipyard and is dedicated to the maritime sector, but primarily to defense and military production. On the left, a sign reads “NATO out of La Spezia.”

La Spezia (Italy), at the “Cantieri Navali di La Spezia” shipyard, young workers paint and secure a propeller during the renovation of a large boat. The “La Spezia Shipyards” are located along the so-called “Blue Mile.”

Cadimare (La Spezia, Italy), tools, old photographs, and newspaper clippings hang on a wall of Baracca Faggioni, an old workshop where boats were built and repaired. Built in 1920 by Guido Faggioni and his brothers Ugo and Albino, all master shipwrights, the barracks are now protected by the FAI (Italian Environment Fund).

La Spezia (Italy), Mohammed Hamwah, head of the Saudi Ports Authority in Saudi Arabia, visits the Fincantieri stand at the Seafuture trade fair, held at the Arsenale in La Spezia and dedicated to the marine, defense, and military production sectors.

La Spezia (Italy), Navy officers in standard summer uniforms chat at the Seafuture fair, held at the Arsenale in La Spezia and dedicated to the marine, defense, and military manufacturing sectors.

Portovenere (La Spezia, Italy), a view of the Church of San Pietro with the Portovenere Canal and, on the left, Palmaria Island. Dating back to the 12th century, the church, situated in a stunning location, is one of the most visited sites in the region.

La Spezia (Italy), two technicians are conducting experiments in the laboratory pool using a small boat at the university campus, affiliated with the University of Genoa. The master's degree course in Yacht Design in La Spezia is one of the few courses of its kind in the world.

La Spezia (Italy), young fans from the “borgata marinara” (seaside village) of Fezzano waiting for the start of the Palio del Golfo along the Passeggiata Morin. The Palio is a rowing race that has been held on the first Sunday in August since 1932 and involves the 13 seaside villages of the Gulf.

La Spezia (Italy), at the “Cantieri Navali di La Spezia” shipyard, Michele is working on his gozzo, getting it ready for the summer. The “La Spezia Shipyards” are located along the so-called “Blue Mile.”

La Spezia (Italy), on the Molo Italia pier and in front of the Amerigo Vespucci sailing ship, the musicians of the Orchestra Sinfonica delle Terre Verdiane prepare for the performance of Giuseppe Verdi's opera “Simon Boccanegra.”

La Spezia (Italy), hundreds of containers line the Gulf of Poets from the city’s port, one of Italy’s largest commercial ports, where large cruise ships also dock.

La Spezia (Italy), members of the Navy Band prepare for a performance along the Molo Italia pier during an event. The Italian Navy Band is one of the oldest military bands in Italy.

La Spezia (Italy), along the so-called “Blue Mile,” at the Riva-Ferretti shipyard, a yacht is being launched. Founded in 1842, the Riva shipyard has been part of the Ferretti Group since 2000.

La Spezia (Italy), students during a Yacht Design class at the university campus, affiliated with the University of Genoa. The master's degree course in Yacht Design in La Spezia is one of the few courses of its kind in the world.

La Spezia (Italy), a technician tests a radio control device for steering an autonomous underwater glider in a laboratory at NATO's Center for Maritime Research and Experimentation (CMRE).

La Spezia (Italy), along the so-called “Blue Mile,” at the Riva-Ferretti shipyard, a luxury yacht is nearing completion in a hangar. Founded in 1842, the Riva shipyard has been part of the Ferretti Group since 2000.

Le Grazie (La Spezia, Italy), a helicopter from the GOI (Gruppo Operativo Incursori, or Incursionist Task Force) during a training exercise. The GOI is one of two units that make up the Comsubin (Comando Raggruppamento Subacquei e Incursori, or Underwater and Incursionist Command), an elite unit of the Italian Navy based in the Varignano Fortress on the Gulf of La Spezia.

La Spezia (Italy), fans from Canaletto, the “coastal district,” celebrate their boat’s victory in the Palio del Golfo along the Passeggiata Morin. The Palio is a regatta that has been held on the first Sunday in August since 1932 and features the participation of the 13 districts of the Gulf.

La Spezia (Italy), Military arsenal: in the Technical Office of Lighthouses (Maritecnofari), Captain Mario Greco shows a visitor the location of maritime lighthouses in the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Arcola (La Spezia, Italy), a woman is sewing a ship's sail at the headquarters of Veleria Sailorwear, a company that mainly produces and repairs vintage sails.

La Spezia (Italy), Italian Navy officers aboard the frigate Spartaco Schergat, inside the Military Arsenal. The frigate was open to visitors during the Seafuture fair, held in the Arsenal and dedicated to the marine, defense, and war production sectors.

La Spezia (Italy), part of the local population protests in the historic center against Israel's attacks on Gaza and against the Seafuture fair, held in the military arsenal of La Spezia and dedicated to the maritime sector but above all to defense and war production.

Fezzano (La Spezia, Italy), young athletes from the seaside village of Fezzano train in the waters of the Gulf of Spezia in preparation for the Palio del Golfo, a rowing race that has been held on the first Sunday in August since 1932.

La Spezia (Italy), a worker slowly moves the newly launched yacht into the water at the Baglietto shipyard. Founded in 1854, the company builds ultra-luxurious mega yachts that are famous all over the world. The Baglietto shipyards are located along the so-called “Blue Mile.”

La Spezia (Italy), sales representatives from the Franco-German company KNDS, which manufactures tanks and armored vehicles, at their stand at the Seafuture trade fair, held at the Arsenale and dedicated to the marine, defense, and military manufacturing sectors.

La Spezia (Italy), an aerial view of the Military Arsenal with the historic center of La Spezia in the background. In the harbor lies the Italian Navy’s training ship “Amerigo Vespucci,” which, following a round-the-world voyage lasting approximately two years (2023–2025), is being prepared for its next voyage in 2026.

La Spezia (Italy), at the “Cantieri Navali di La Spezia” shipyard, master shipwright Michele Balistreri, 77, observes a boat he is renovating. Michele was born in Marzamemi, Sicily, but has lived in La Spezia since 1971 and passed on his passion to his son Andrea, who is also a shipwright. The “La Spezia Shipyards” are located along the so-called “Blue Mile.”

Le Grazie (La Spezia, Italy), members of the GOI (Gruppo Operativo Incursori, or Incursionist Task Force) board a helicopter during a training exercise. The GOI is one of two units that make up the Comsubin (Comando Raggruppamento Subacquei e Incursori, or Underwater and Incursionist Command), an elite unit of the Italian Navy based in the Varignano Fortress on the Gulf of La Spezia.

La Spezia (Italy): several megayachts at the Mirabello Marina, overlooking the Gulf of Poets. A landmark for superyachts in the Mediterranean, the Mirabello Marina is the only marina in Italy built on an artificial peninsula entirely out at sea.

La Spezia (Italy), Fania Raffellini (left) from the “Vela Tradizionale” association sails the waters of the Gulf of La Spezia on her ship Pandora together with friends and colleagues.

La Spezia (Italy), along the so-called “Blue Mile,” at the Riva-Ferretti shipyard, a luxury yacht is ready to be launched and set adrift. Founded in 1842, the Riva shipyard has been part of the Ferretti Group since 2000.

Isola del Tino (La Spezia, Italy), a priest and several members of the Italian Army attend Mass celebrated by Bishop Luigi Ernesto Palletti on the feast day of Saint Venerio (September 13). A Christian monk and hermit, Saint Venerio died on the island of Tino in 630; he is the patron saint of the Gulf of La Spezia and protector of Italy's lighthouse keepers.

Fezzano (La Spezia, Italy), the shipyard of master shipwright Francesco Di Santo, who built the boat with which the village of Fezzano competed in the Palio del Golfo, a rowing race that has been held on the first Sunday in August since 1932.

La Spezia (Italy), young students from the University of Pisa participate in RAMI25, an advanced underwater robotics competition held at NATO's Centre for Maritime Research and Experimentation (CMRE).

La Spezia (Italy), the headquarters of Oto Melara with the Gulf of La Spezia in the background. Now part of Leonardo-Finmeccanica, Oto Melara manufactures a wide range of weapons systems for land and naval defense, including cannons, ammunition, armored land vehicles, and missile and anti-aircraft systems.

La Spezia (Italy), young fans from the “borgata marinara” (seaside village) of Fossamastra waiting for the start of the Palio del Golfo along the Passeggiata Morin. The Palio is a rowing race that has been held on the first Sunday in August since 1932 and involves the 13 seaside villages of the Gulf.

Le Grazie (La Spezia, Italy): Lino Tirelli, a former boat owner and member of the Vela Tradizionale association, aboard a sailboat during an event.

La Spezia (Italy), military technicians lower an autonomous underwater glider into the basins of NATO's Centre for Maritime Research and Experimentation (CMRE).

La Spezia (Italy), Military arsenal: two military workers are walking down the hallways of the Technical Office of Lighthouses (Maritecnofari), which is responsible for testing and measuring all models of light sources, headlights, and flashing lights selected and purchased from the market.

La Spezia (Italy), technicians at work in a long warehouse at the Military Arsenal. This is the Artillery Workshop, where weapons for ships have been maintained since 1870.

Lerici (La Spezia, Italy), a view of the seaside village with its famous medieval castle overlooking the Gulf of Poets. In ancient times, Lerici and Portovenere (visible at the top center) were the two strategic entry points to the exceptional natural gulf of La Spezia.

La Spezia (Italy), some students work with carbon fiber at the university campus, affiliated with the University of Genoa. The master's degree course in Yacht Design in La Spezia is one of the few courses of its kind in the world.

La Spezia (Italy), maintenance is being carried out on the Italian Navy's Raimondo Montecuccoli offshore patrol vessel in a basin at the Military Arsenal. Opened in 1869 and intended for the construction of military ships, today the arsenal is a naval base for the Italian Navy but has retained only a maintenance function, losing most of its 12,000 employees (today there are only a few hundred).

La Spezia (Italy), chemist Marco Antonio Salvemini at work among computers and microscopes in one of the laboratories at the NATO Centre for Maritime Research and Experimentation (CMRE).

Fezzano (La Spezia, Italy), young athletes from the seaside village of Fezzano just before entering the water during a train in the Gulf of Spezia, in preparation for the Palio del Golfo, a rowing race that has been held on the first Sunday in August since 1932.

La Spezia (Italy), scale models of weapons on display at the Seafuture trade show, at the booth of the European consortium MBDA—a manufacturer of missiles and defense technologies—held at the La Spezia Arsenal and dedicated to the shipbuilding, defense, and military industries.

La Spezia (Italy), a tank on display at the Seafuture trade show, at the booth of the European consortium MBDA—a manufacturer of missiles and defense technologies—which is being held at the La Spezia Arsenal and is dedicated to the shipbuilding, defense, and military industries.

Lerici (La Spezia, Italy), young people are drinking and having fun during happy hour at La Baracchetta, a typical seaside bar just a stone's throw from the historic medieval castle.

La Spezia (Italy), in the Military Arsenal, technicians are working on a cannon in the Artillery Workshop, where weapons to be used on ships have been maintained since 1870.

La Spezia (Italy), along the so-called “Blue Mile,” at the Riva-Ferretti shipyard, a worker walks through a hangar where luxury yachts are being built. Founded in 1842, the Riva shipyard has been part of the Ferretti Group since 2000.

Isola del Tino (La Spezia, Italy), members of the Italian Navy and sailors from the Amerigo Vespucci vessel wait for a ferry on the feast day of San Venerio (September 13). A Christian monk and hermit, San Venerio died on the island of Tino in 630; he is the patron saint of the Gulf of La Spezia and protector of Italy's lighthouse keepers.

La Spezia (Italy), Military Arsenal: Technicians at work during maintenance and renovation of the Italian Navy’s training ship “Amerigo Vespucci,” following a round-the-world voyage that lasted approximately two years (2023–2025).

La Spezia (Italy), members of the Italian Navy, the local Catholic clergy, and representatives of the civilian community greet one another along the Passeggiata Morin, overlooking the sea, on the occasion of the feast of Saint Venerio (September 13), the patron saint of the Gulf of La Spezia.

La Spezia (Italy), workers sit and watch the bulbous bow of a newly launched yacht pass by at the Baglietto shipyard. Founded in 1854, the company builds ultra-luxurious mega yachts that are famous all over the world. The Baglietto shipyards are located along the so-called “Blue Mile.”

Le Grazie (La Spezia, Italy), members of the GOS (Gruppo Operativo Subacquei, or Underwater Operations Group) prepare First Lieutenant Augusto Mormile, a diver, by equipping him with old surface-supplied diving equipment. The GOS is one of the two units that make up Comsubin (Diving and Raiding Group Command), an elite unit of the Italian Navy based at the Varignano Fortress in the Gulf of La Spezia.

La Spezia (Italy), several boats are welcoming the arrival in the Gulf of La Spezia of the Italian Navy’s training ship “Amerigo Vespucci” after a round-the-world voyage lasting approximately two years (2023–2025). The ship is heading to the Naval Shipyard, where it will undergo major maintenance work.

Portovenere (La Spezia, Italy): A tourist takes a photo of his girlfriend as she sits on the Romanesque loggia overlooking the sea at the Church of San Pietro. Dating back to the 12th century, the church, with its stunning location, is one of the most visited sites in the region.

Le Grazie (La Spezia, Italy), members of the GOI (Gruppo Operativo Incursori, or Incursionist Task Force) abseil onto a ship from a helicopter during a training exercise. The GOI is one of two units that make up the Comsubin (Comando Raggruppamento Subacquei e Incursori, or Underwater and Incursionist Command), an elite unit of the Italian Navy based in the Varignano Fortress on the Gulf of La Spezia.

La Spezia (Italy), students before a Yacht Design class at the university campus, affiliated with the University of Genoa. The master's degree course in Yacht Design in La Spezia is one of the few courses of its kind in the world.

La Spezia (Italy), workers and technicians at the Baglietto shipyard. Founded in 1854, the company builds ultra-luxurious mega yachts that are famous all over the world. The Baglietto shipyards are located along the so-called “Blue Mile.”

La Spezia (Italy), a monk blesses a yacht just before its launch at the Baglietto shipyard. Founded in 1854, the company builds ultra-luxurious mega yachts that are famous all over the world. The Baglietto shipyards are located along the so-called “Blue Mile.”

Arcola (La Spezia, Italy), a woman designs a ship's sail at the headquarters of Veleria Sailorwear, a company that mainly produces and repairs vintage sails.

La Spezia (Italy), military personnel and young students from the University of Pisa are testing an underwater drone during RAMI25, an advanced underwater robotics competition held at NATO's Centre for Maritime Research and Experimentation (CMRE).

Portovenere (La Spezia, Italy), new explosives are tested at the “Cottrau” firing range: established in 1911, the firing range is managed by the Navy's Naval Support and Experimentation Center (CSSN).

La Spezia (Italy), an aerial view of the Military Arsenal with the buildings of the Fabiano Basso neighborhood in the background. In the harbor basin at the center is the Italian Navy training ship “Amerigo Vespucci,” which, after a round-the-world voyage lasting about two years (2023–2025), is being prepared to set sail again in 2026.