THE UGLY CROATIAN DUCKLING
Little considered in the past, Zagreb proves to be a fascinating crossroads of styles and cultures. But the adoption of the Euro in 2023 raised the cost of living and drove rents through the roof
There was a time when no one wanted to go to Zagreb. Some dared to call it ‘little Vienna’, but few actually ventured into the cobbled streets of Gornji grad, the upper town. Then, after the collapse of Yugoslavia, something changed and the world slowly took notice of this fascinating ‘crossroads’ city: a capital that more than any other combines Austro-Hungarian memory and Balkan heritage, Mitteleuropean baroque and Soviet brutalism, Catholic tradition and Orthodox world. Thus Zagreb has suddenly become beautiful.
Nestled between the mountains and the Sava River, it surprises with its cultural vibrancy and creativity, reflected in the incredible number of museums, galleries and art centres. A city without a metro, to be experienced above ground by strolling through its squares, morning markets and cafés. Since 2021, Croatia's capital has been led by one of the greenest and most progressive coalitions in Europe, ‘Možemo’, which promises more European funds, an ambitious green transition and a more transparent public administration. Because Zagreb (where a quarter of the Croatian population lives) embodies the soul of a forward-looking nation that has abandoned the old Kuna since 2023, adopting the Euro and joining the Schengen area. All well, then? No.
The country in 2024 was shaken by a corruption scandal (unfortunately still widespread in the country) and the adoption of the Euro increased inflation, jeopardising the maintenance of salaries and social standards. Moreover, in the shadow of the two spires of the katedrala (symbols of the city, they withstood the violent earthquake of 2020), rents continue to rise, so much so that the government has decided - as in other European countries - to limit short term rentals, thus fuelling sustainable tourism. And hoping not to stunt the growth of the former ugly Croatian duckling.
Nestled between the mountains and the Sava River, it surprises with its cultural vibrancy and creativity, reflected in the incredible number of museums, galleries and art centres. A city without a metro, to be experienced above ground by strolling through its squares, morning markets and cafés. Since 2021, Croatia's capital has been led by one of the greenest and most progressive coalitions in Europe, ‘Možemo’, which promises more European funds, an ambitious green transition and a more transparent public administration. Because Zagreb (where a quarter of the Croatian population lives) embodies the soul of a forward-looking nation that has abandoned the old Kuna since 2023, adopting the Euro and joining the Schengen area. All well, then? No.
The country in 2024 was shaken by a corruption scandal (unfortunately still widespread in the country) and the adoption of the Euro increased inflation, jeopardising the maintenance of salaries and social standards. Moreover, in the shadow of the two spires of the katedrala (symbols of the city, they withstood the violent earthquake of 2020), rents continue to rise, so much so that the government has decided - as in other European countries - to limit short term rentals, thus fuelling sustainable tourism. And hoping not to stunt the growth of the former ugly Croatian duckling.
